Day 17 - John Dellenback Dunes TH to Horsefall Beach and then over the McCullough Memorial Bridge

Where I Am Tonight:  Home!          Miles Hiked Today: 10.2 (16.4 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  144.7 (232.9 km)    


Today I completed the last section of the Oregon Dunes.  This hike was supposed to start with a hike across the dunes from where I ended another hike,  However, that was  ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE due to the stupid and quite bothersome sand dunes, and I swore I would never go there again.  So, there was NO WAY I was going to walk through (and get lost again) in that sea of sand.  So, I found another park a couple miles before the planned trail head as I determined the sand dunes there (while huge and still the stuff of nightmares) were smaller and not as intimidating.  My hike ended in North Bend, after crossing the McCullough Memorial Bridge.  

I am really lucking out on this beautiful weather!  I'm still using sun screen!!

 I have seen people fishing many times along the beach but I saw a lot of them today.  They were fishing for pink perch - or at least the one guy I talked with was.

Unfortunately, this section of the beach shares with the sand buggy people again - not my favorite.  but the good news is that today is the last day in the dunes!!!!  Hallelujah!!!!

I ended my day crossing the bridge on Hwy 101 into the town of North Bend.  This bridge is named after Conde Balcom McCullough, who was an American bridge engineer who is primarily known for designing many of Oregon's coastal bridges on U.S. Route 101 during the 1920s and 1930s.  The former Coos Bay Bridge was renamed the McCullough Memorial Bridge in his honor after his death.

I will be taking a few days off to come home, go to Matthew's last back-to-school night at Sunset, go to a football game, a play, do a triathlon, stop in Eugene to see Elizabeth, etc.  And maybe rest a little!  😃  I will be back to the OCT early next week with Pam.

Day 16 - Winchester Bay to Oregon Dunes Day Use area

Where I Am Tonight:  Honeyman State Park          Miles Hiked Today: 8.7 (14 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  134.5 (216.5 km)    


Today I walked north, to finish the section between Winchester Bay and Oregon Dunes Day Use Area.   I had hiked the section south of there on day 13, and the section north of there on day 14.  My book had me taking a boat ride across Winchester Bay to start the hike today but I figured that wasn't necessary since I could just start on the correct side of the bay.  However, it was difficult to find a road where I could reach the beach, but eventually I did.

The ecosystem that butts up to the sand dunes is amazing - it's like walking through a beautiful rainforest!  It's thick and varied and it's amazing that it changes to just sand in a matter of feet.

All along this area of the beach (and some up north, too, and I think down south) area protected areas for the snowy plover bird.  It's a cute little bird that nests in the sand - so for many obvious reasons, it's endangered.  Many areas are marked off for their nesting period (that just finished, by the way).  Sea gulls are OK but these little plovers are so cute to watch trying to feed on the incoming tide.

It's also calm enough here that I saw my first paddleboarder.  I've seen lots of surfers over the days.

Day 15 - Resting and enjoying Florence

Where I Am Tonight:  Honeyman State Park          Miles Hiked Today: 0

Miles Hiked Overall:  126 (202 km)    

It seemed to work for God, so on the 7th full day of my return back to the OCT I decided to rest.   I used the time to read, sit and drink coffee in an awesome little cafe and actually do a little shopping in the very cute Florence old town.  I also went around and took photos of the few sea lion  statues around here...I've also seen some others along the beach...I'm trying to catch them all.  I also took a picture of the beach just north of Florence...it was just POURING when I came by there a few days ago.  Also, I went to one of those beaches that is small and closed in on both sides by rock mountains so is not easily accessible and so hence, not on the official OCT.  I ended the day by adding to my very official Good Pizza Places on the Coast list by going to an awesome place in Florence.

Day 14 - Oregon Dunes Day Use area to South Jetty of Siuslaw River

Where I Am Tonight:  Honeyman State Park          Miles Hiked Today: 14.8 (23.8 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  126 (202 km)    

Today my friend Janet Otterstedt came to walk with me.  Thanks again Janet!  We walked north from the Oregon Dunes day use area parking lot to the South Jetty of the Siuslaw River outside of Florence.

A portion of this beach is open to dune buggies (and anything else you want to drive on the beach).  I know the dunes are open for such vehicles but it amazes me that Oregon, which for the most part is pretty environmentally conservative and highly environmentally friendly, would allow motor vehicles of any kind on the  beaches in this day and age. Pam and I also experienced this up north by Gearhart where there is a section of beach open to vehicles.  It really changes the solitude and beautiful scenery.  Not my favorite. 

Despite the vehicles, Janet and I had an awesome walk and tried to catch up on many years.  We tried to recall high school moments...but were both too old to remember anything!   It was a gorgeous day and we saw seals playing in the water and people fishing from the beach.

 Here we are walking through the Siltcoos River.

Day 13 - Winchester Bay to John Dellenback Trail Head

Where I Am Tonight:  Florence           Miles Hiked Today: 9.5 ( 15.3 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  111 (179 km)    

Today I hiked south from Winchester Bay to John Dellenback Trail Head.   It was pretty awesome to be on the other side of the dunes,  I've never been on the beach side of the dunes before.   It's pretty isolated over there because who's dumb enough to walk over the dunes?  Yes, me, that's who.  From Winchester Bay, you can pretty easily get to the beach but after 7 miles, I turned east and has to go over the dunes.  This is NO SMALL FEAT!!  It is, actually, horribly hard.  I frankly don't see why people don't get permanently lost out there....its just a sea of sand as far as the eye can see for a few miles.  Luckily, someone put tall wooden posts every 100 meters or so that indicate the trail..but they are still hard to see.  And yes, I did aimlessly walk around for over an hour before I finally saw one other person way off in the distance and finally found my way to the parking lot.  Right now in this moment in time,  there's nothing I detest more than sand dunes....but there are more to come in the next couple of days.

Nothing but sand ...

My lifeline back to the trail head

Yay, other people - I'm not lost (unless they are too)

Because you can't go to the beach without also stopping at Mo's, right?

Day 12 - South to Florence

Where I Am Tonight:  Florence           Miles Hiked Today: 7.5 ( 12.1 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  101.5 (163.3 km)    

Now I've come to the spot on the coast where I can't walk on the beach (only big rocks jutting out into the ocean and it's not safe to climb over) and a trail over land hasn't been secured, so that only leaves walking on Hwy. 101.  While I've walked 101 a few times already, it's not exactly a smart thing to do since there is very little shoulder most of the time and cars are just whizzing by at fast speeds.   So I will be jumping over a couple spots on the coast due to this dilemma.

There are a couple areas that have a small beach in these areas and I will try to get to them and at least touch the sand!

Today as I drove down to Florence I stopped at a number of small beaches and overlooks.  I also hiked 5.5 miles from Baker Beach Campground to Sislaw River north jetty.  The sand dunes are coming!  I can actually see them in the distance!  It was cold and rainy most of the day but no wind, so that was awesome!

Tiny Stonefield Beach

Beautiful, secluded Rock Creek Beach

North jetty,  Siuslaw River

Day 11 - North of Yachats to Cape Perpetua

Where I Am Tonight:  Yachats            Miles Hiked Today: 9.3 (15.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  94.0 (152.3 km)    


Today started out on the beach, went through Yachats, and then up over Cape Perpetua on a trail for a total of 9.3 miles.  The trail was in thick forest (so I didn't even feel the rain!) and was very vertical.   This section of the OCT has one of the most interesting and saddest stories attached to it.  

The section of the trail from just south of Yachats up to the top of Cape Perpetua is officially known as Amanda's Trail.  About half way up the trail there is a statue of Amanda, and a sign describing her story, from a dark period in Oregon's history.

This section of the OCT runs through the former Coast Indian Reservation, established via treaty in 1855 with the Coastal Tribes of Oregon. The reservation ran from Cape Lookout south to Siltcoos (an ~100 mile section of the central coast), and was supposed to be a place where local tribes could live in peace. But as hostilities between the native population and settlers grew, volunteer militias known as the "exterminators" began to round up the tribes of southwest Oregon and confined them to the new reservation on the Pacific.

Over the next decade, natives routinely ran away from the reservation, fleeing abuse and starvation at the hands of U.S. Indian Agents. The job then fell to the U.S. military to round up the run-aways and march them back in.  One of these roundups in the spring of 1864 included a Coos woman named Amanda.  She was old and blind, living with a white settler near Coos Bay, 50 miles outside of the Coast Reservation. She was taken by the army troops, leaving her daughter behind, and began the long march up the rugged coastline to Yachats, escorted by the army troops.  One of the troops, Corporal Royal Bensell, documented the march.  His notes included the following note on Amanda when they reached the sharp basalt shoreline near Cape Perpetua, stating that she "tore her feet horribly over these ragged rock, leaving blood sufficient to track her by."

After 10 days of walking, the band reached Yachats. The army troops turned over the natives over to the Indian Agents.  Amanda's fate from there is a mystery, but the fate of the Coast Indian Reservation is well documented.  By 1875, the entire reservation was dismantled for white settlement, and the remaining tribal population removed to Siletz and Grand Ronde Reservations.

It was humbling to walk where these Native Americans walked.

Statue of Amanda, with gifts people have left.

At the top of the climb, I got a great view of Cape Perpetua.  At the end of the hike, I went down to the rocks (no sand here) and watched the ocean.  It is still pretty stormy today.   The ocean looks very angry!

A side note here:  We are so blessed beyond measure that we live in such a beautiful place!  I will never get tired of seeing these gorgeous forests or this magnificent ocean.

Day 10 - Beachside State Park to Seal Rock

Where I Am Tonight:  Yachats            Miles Hiked Today: 13.1 ( 21.1 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  84.7 (136.3 km)    

Today was another solo day hiking.  I used the local bus again to do my shuttle.  The first section was all walking on the beach, but just after getting to Waldport I had to walk the rest of the way on Hwy 101.  High tide was not for a couple of hours but because of the big storm last night and early morning the tide was greater than expected.  It was almost up to the grass on the beach, and most of the sand was wet and covered with water most of the time.  The storm also littered the sand with many logs and other debris.

It was beautiful and sunny most of the day.  I even walked with no coat on.  Then by the end of the day it was raining and getting windy, so I got lucky with the weather for the second day in a row.   As I mentioned above, despite the nice weather during the day the ocean was still very rough.

Sharing the road with the big trucks!

That is the Waldport seawall.  This is where we came all the time when I was growing up and yet I'd never walked near the seawall until today.

Love the seals and sea lions.  I saw lots of seals playing in Alsea Bay today by Waldport, and also saw lots of seals playing in Yaquina Bay yesterday.  I could watch them play for hours!

Day 9 - Seal Rock State Park to Newport

Where I Am Tonight:  Newport             Miles Hiked Today: 12.4 ( 20.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  71.6 (115.2 km)    

Today was another solo day hiking.  I took the local bus from City Hall in Newport to Seal Rock State Park and then walked back to Newport, 12.4 miles.

Today was beautiful.  Finally!!!   The day started out sunny and warmish with blue sky,  It got progressively cloudy, but the rain held off until late in the afternoon and the first drops of rain started falling as I walked back into Newport.  The wind was quite strong, but was from the south and hence at my back the entire day which was a pleasant change from having the wind blowing in my face.

Seal Rock

 

I walked along the beach almost all day until I reached the the south jetty of the Yaquina River, and then headed inland.  During the entire day I saw maybe 10 people total.   I have driven across the beautiful Yaquina Bay Bridge countless times, but walked across it today for the first time ever.  Wow, sooo windy.  After I crossed the bridge I even had enough energy to walk down to the bay front shops and buy some of the caramel corn that I need to have every time I am in Newport.  All in all a great day.

Yaquina Bay Bridge

Very windy on the bridge!

Day 8 - Ponsler Viewpoint to Heceta Head Lighthouse

Where I Am Tonight:  Newport             Miles Hiked Today: 4.8 ( 7.7 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  59.2 (95.3 km)    


Blog master Note:  

Based on schedule conflicts Karen will be doing a number of sections by herself, with Pam rejoining her for some sections.  This creates logistical issues, as car shuttles are not possible when hiking alone. As a result, Karen will be skipping around a lot, trying to use public transportation or taxis in the few places they are available on the Oregon coast to get back to where she left her car.  She also took her bike and may use that as her "shuttle", driving her car to the end of a section, riding to the starting point, and then going back to pick up the bike at the end of the day.  However, all these options take time away from hiking, so Karen also put out an appeal for any friends who would be willing to help out.  Help could either mean hiking with her for a day or more (enabling a car shuttle), or just driving down to the coast for a day (or more) and picking her up or dropping her off at the the end or start of her hike for that day.  If you have not yet responded and would be willing to help please contact Karen to coordinate.  Any help would be appreciated, and if you can't physically come to the coast to offer your support keep her in your thoughts and prayers and send your support telepathically, or send her a note of encouragement by adding a comment to the blog, or sending her a text or email. Thanks.

Today I walked only 4.8 miles as I left home mid morning and had a long drive down to the central part of the coast, so I had to pick a hike that I could do in a relatively short period of time.  The hike started out on the beach and then after a couple of miles the headland that the lighthouse sits on juts out into the water so there is a path that leads from the beach up and over the mountain and then up to the lighthouse.  

During much of the hike it was pouring down rain, and the wind the wind was vicious and cold.  The sand is blowing all over the place.  On a positive note, at least it's not crowded on the beach!

Blowing sand

Not sure what is worse, blowing sand, or cold rain blowing on your face

Since I was alone, I actually hiked from Ponsler Viewpoint to Heceta Head Lighthouse and back.  I hiked about half the way, returned to my car to warm up, then drove to the other end and hiked back to where I had previously stopped and then returned to my car again.  Fortunately the clouds were high enough that there was a reasonable view from the lighthouse.

 I finished my day by driving north to Newport where I will spend the night, and do my next sections of hiking as there is bus service for a section of the coast north and south of Newport.  If I time things right I can either catch a bus to my starting point and hike back to my car, or catch a bus back to where I left my car at the end of the day.  Major bummer if I miss the bus as they only go 3-4 times a day!

Day 7 - Manzanita to Barview Jetty

Where We Are Tonight:  Pacific City             Miles Hiked Today: 14.9 ( 24.0 km)

Miles Hiked Overall:  54.4 (87.5 km)    


Today we hiked from Manzanita to Barview Jetty, at the north end of Tillamook Bay. I know I keep saying this but today was so hard.   We walked for 7 hours straight,  14.9 miles.  

The first section was on the beach, from Manzanita down to the Nehalem river.  Sand, sand, and more sand.

When we got to the Nehalem River we had to cut across the dune and inland a little bit.  Fortunately we were able to get a boat from Jetty Fishery Marina & RV Park to ferry us across the river.  The alternative is miles of backtracking on roads to get around the bay.

After crossing the river we resumed our walk on the beach.  The last 8 miles was in soft sand that came over our shoes.  It rained the majority of the time and the wind blew right in our faces.  We were freezing. 

Well, that pretty much echoes our day.   It was ridiculous and crazy and mostly not fun.  We had to ford 5 rivers that the rain created (some over our shoes) and when we couldn't do the last one, we had to walk to Hwy 101 and hike the rest of the way alongside the highway to get to our car that we had left at Barview Jetty Park.  Then we got back to our campsite and our tent was swamped again.  We're not having fun...everything is a problem.  Time to re plan, again ...